Crafting Oh Jane: A Visit to the Trippen Factory in Zehdenick

Nestled in the small town of Zehdenick, Brandenburg, just 1.5 hours outside of Berlin, lies the Trippen Factory. Known for its avant-garde designs and commitment to sustainability, Trippen has earned its place as a pioneer in the shoe industry. This winter, Head over Heels collaborated with Trippen to create a bespoke design: the Oh Jane, a chunky Mary Jane with a distinctive strap. Our graphic designer, Merle, took a detour to Zehdenick while visiting family in Germany to oversee the production of this special shoe and learn about the craftsmanship that makes Trippen unique.

The Blueprint: Precision and Efficiency

The process begins with a digital blueprint stored in a specialised machine that cuts the leather in the most efficient way possible, minimising waste. This stage produces what’s called the "shell pattern" — the flat components of the shoe, resembling puzzle pieces. While it looked deceptively simple, solving the puzzle required expertise.

Ina and Magda, Trippen’s skilled technicians, consulted detailed style manuals to prepare each piece. They roughened specific areas of the leather to ensure the adhesive would hold securely, a critical step in the assembly process. This preparation stage underscores the precision and patience that handmade shoes demand.

From Flat Leather to Formed Shoe

Once prepared, the pieces moved to Luisa, who expertly glued them together. Here, the shoe began to take shape, though it remained floppy and formless. Britta, who has worked at Trippen for over 15 years, took over the stitching. Chatting with her, I learned that employees receive a pair of Trippen shoes on their birthdays, and Britta proudly wore her oldest pair, still in excellent condition after 15 years. The factory’s warm camaraderie and longevity of its staff are testaments to its fair working conditions.

With the initial structure complete, cushioning was added for comfort. Holding the half-formed Oh Jane felt surreal — the essence of a shoe was there, but it lacked its final character.

Shaping and Securing

The next stop was Stephen, who added front and back caps to stabilise the shoe’s structure. Using a metal mould heated to 150°C, followed by a rapid cooling process at -20°C, he secured the glue and gave the shoe its shape. Stephen also attached the strap buckle, a defining feature of the Oh Jane. Like Britta, Stephen has been with Trippen for over 15 years, and he often gives his birthday shoe voucher to his wife as a thoughtful gift.

Building the Sole

Valeri, one of Trippen’s original employees, transformed the "shaft" (the upper) into a shoe by attaching the cork midsole, known for its sustainable and cushioning properties. The final outsole, made of durable rubber, was glued and stitched on by Oli using a specialised machine. This machine applies heat and pressure to securely bond the materials, ensuring longevity.

The Finishing Touches

In the final stages, Stefan carefully sanded and smoothed the edges of the sole, and Martin sealed the edges for a polished finish. Karin, who has been with Trippen for 27 years, performed the last steps: lacing, cleaning, and burning off tiny threads to create a flawless product. Karin’s meticulous care epitomised the attention to detail that defines every Trippen shoe.

More Than a Shoe

Standing in the factory, I was struck by how many hands — and years of expertise — go into creating a single pair of shoes. From the skilled artisans to the state-of-the-art machines, every step of the process highlighted the artistry and effort behind handmade footwear. Unlike mass-produced shoes, these are built to last, repairable, and made with a commitment to sustainability. It’s no wonder handmade shoes come at a premium — you’re not just buying footwear; you’re investing in quality, craftsmanship, and a better future.

As factories worldwide face scrutiny for poor working conditions, Trippen’s model stands out. Employees are treated fairly, paid above minimum wage, and celebrated as integral parts of the brand’s success. Knowing this, I’m even more excited to bring the Oh Jane to New Zealand. Every pair tells a story of dedication and skill — a story you’ll carry with every step.